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Leaving Rome, we hopped a train down to Naples, with some trepidation. Naples was a mildly controversial stop on my Italy itinerary. Books and forums emphasized it was a dirty city, full of crime, pickpockets, and graffiti. People I spoke with told me to skip it and stay an extra day in Rome. Despite this, we decided to go for it, and I’m glad I did, as our short time in Naples was excellent.

General advice:
- Don’t stay at a hotel near the train station. It is a dirty area with lots of people not looking out for your best interest. Our hotel sent a taxi with a fixed rate, which they arranged to avoid any rip-offs. We stayed on Vomero Hill, and it was lovely and safe.
- You do have to keep your wits about you – keep your purse close to you and don’t randomly walk down dark streets, but overall I found Naples to be quite safe.

The base
Weekend at Napoli (via e. alvino, ,157) is a charming bed and breakfast and a great base to start and end your day. Paolo took excellent care of us, arranging an itinerary and restaurant recommendations to maximize our short time in Naples. Accommodation is basic and clean, and you’re treated to nice breakfast in the villa each morning. If you are going to Naples, book ahead with Weekend at Napoli. Having a host like Paolo makes all the difference.

To do
What you must do in Napoli is find a busy part of Naples (I was in the Vomero Hill shopping district), buy a panino or pastry, and find a bench outside while you munch. Then sit back, and enjoy the show of Naples. No lines on the road, barely any traffic lights, and an onslaught of cars, scooters, bicyclists, and pedestrians navigating through organized chaos. Watching lets you feel the energy of the city.

Naples National Archeology Museum - all the best jewellery and artefacts from Pompeii landed here, a fascinating museum displaying the goods of this lost city.

To eat & drink

Anza Cafe, via scarlatti 139, is an excellent place for an afternoon drink and snack. Located in the centre of the Vomero Hill shopping district, it’s an oasis from the hectic pace of the city. We sipped on cappuccino fredo (Italian iced cappuccinos) and munched on Napoli’s authentic, sweet pastries,  sfogliatelle frolla, on a busy but comfortable open patio.

Pizzeria da Michele, Via G. Martucci, 61. One does not go to Naples without eating pizza. Paolo from Weekend at Napoli sent us to Pizzeria da Michele, which churns out a classic Neopolitan pizza in their hot wood burning ovens. For 5 euros, you get a huge margherita pizza for one – one of the best you’ll taste.  A nice, salty and chewy crust, super thin centre, minimal (but flavourful) toppings, and cooked up in a super hot, 800 degree wood burning oven. Awesome.

CAPRI
A 40 minute ferry ride from Naples is Capri, a gorgeous resort island where tourists and the Italian rich visit to relax and spend money.

The base
Your options in Capri are: expensive resort, really expensive resort, and super exclusive crazy expense resort. OR, you can go to Hotel La Tosca, Via D. Birago, 5, which is a lovely, affordable haven in Capri, just a few minutes down a narrow and windy path from the main square in Capri.

To do
Head over to AnaCapri and catch the chair lift to Monte Solaro, a 15 minute open chair-lift ride to a high point on the Island of Capri. You’ll go over local gardens and at the top are rewarded with an excellent view.

The shopping
Walk around the Capri Centre square and take in all the beautiful designer windows. Also, make sure you hit La Parisienne, home of the “Jackie O” capri pant, which they make in classic black and a range of additional colours and prints.

The food
Buonocore Patisserie (via v. Emanuelle)  – pick up breakfast, lunch, or a snack at this excellent bakery on Capri. Imagine some of the best gelato you’ve tasted with freshly made waffle cones, or to-die for Lemon cookies – a Capri specialty. We came here about four times during our 2 day stay on Capri.

Edivino (via sella orate, 10a), is an excellent wine and tapas bar on Capri serving homestyle food at reasonable prices. The restaurant is actually part of the owner’s house, with tables set-up in their living room and out in their beautiful backyard. We took an outdoor seat and enjoyed some crisp Italian white wine with tapas, including: bruschette with Italian gorgonzola and caramelized onions, thick and flavourful chickpea soup, and homemade lasagne with paper thin fresh pasta noodles.

Da Gelsomina, via Migliara, 72. Take a nice, 30 min. walk from the main square in Anacapri and you’ll be treated with two things. First, the restaurant Da Gelsomina, where you’ll experience authentic Capri home cooking over a beautiful view of the Island. Afterwards, take a short walk down to the Belvedere Migliera viewpoint and take in the surrounding beauty.

Ristorante Paolino, via Palazzo a Mare, 11 – I recommend this place with some reservation. Its best feature: their setting. You are seated outdoors under a beautiful grove of lemon trees – a one-of a kind setting. The downside: it’s quite touristy and not in Capri Centre, which means you need to take a cab to the restaurant, about $15-20 Euros each way, a lot for a restaurant with good, but not memorable food and average service.

Still to come: Florence, Bologna, and Venice.

Additional reference: I noticed Vitamin Daily featured Naples and Capri recently – here is their lovely itinerary as well.